I pretty much hung it up on restoring the Doors concert handbill. This is the handbill that was handed out AFTER the Aug. 5, 1967 concert. The reason for this is, unlike many of the old Bill Graham shows out on the West Coast back in the day, this poster was handed out at record stores on the West Coast. On or around the same day, the Door' "Light My Fire" hit number one on the charts and the record company used the concert poster to promote the song/ album. At the Bill Graham shows, a second print was usually handed out following the show as concert goers left the venue.
Obviously, this poster was well "loved." As discussed, there was a LOT of paper loss which made the restoration difficult for an amateur. The exposed paper fiber made it tricky to replicate the sharp lines of the original - especially on the missing printing.
Regardless, I mitered the corners of a cheap antique frame, joined and painted it and cut a mat. I've provided a close up of the repaired area. I used an oil based pastel as a base for the outer green column. Not sure I'd used the same medium again. If one looks close, it doesn't match. Other than that, it presents fairly well.
For my first swag at paperbacking, I think it went as well as could be expected. I needed to get some backing behind the poster to add the missing pieces/ color.
I'm closing this thread and moving on to my bleaching adventure with the Lobby Card (LC) in another post.
As mentioned, if it were a valuable LC, I'd likely NOT bleach it. The deacidifacation process really improved the appearance by itself. Also, the more I read about bleaching, as most of the pros know, this is probably the last option one would want to use to improve aesthetics of a poster, LC, other artwork. I'm also finding the direct sunlight bleaching technique to be an interesting and perhaps safer/ easier option.
I'll post some links and pics in my bleaching thread.
So you placed adhesive on the poster, then laid the mulberry on top? I would imagine as soon as the mulberry hit the wet poster/glue it began to soak it up and lay down unevely, especially if you were laying the poster down by hand. I'm guessing this is what contributed to the inconsistent placing of the mulberry onto the poster.
Here is the method i used, gotten from Charlie. - i glued a "holytex" fabric to a large board, i think it had a melamine surface so I could remove it when completed. - I then glued masa paper (70gsm's?) of course Mulberry could be used---to the holytex, after it dried, - i then washed my poster, sandwiched in between mylar, then removed 1 sheet of mylar, brushed a thin layer of adhesive, then with the poster still on one side of the mylar, laid it down on the masa. - allow 2-3 days of drying, then pull the holytex off the board, then remove the holytex from the paper and done.
I'm guessing the poster was not completely flat when you laid the mulberry down, thus resulting in wrinkles/bubbles. Using a brayer is often not necessary, it can create fold line issues. I simply wipe it down form the center to the edges, of course the mylar is still on top before i pull it off, carefully of course.
If you've got creases, then i'm guessing you might use some pressure, but i'm not confident it will help dramatically. I let mine dry naturally 2-3 days.
Hope this helps and i'll check this thread again. But very nice to see someone taking big risks, having fun and documenting it! Keep at it!
I'm new, ignorant, and confused! If we talk about poster mounting as poster > masa paper > cotton duck, then the holytex takes the place of the cotton duck, so it's poster > masa or mulberry paper > holytex in this example?
I guess you're gluing down the holytex to a table or surface in the hopes that you can easily remove the entire mounted piece afterwards, since you're not mounting to a stretched and framed piece of canvas?
"- allow 2-3 days of drying, then pull the holytex off the board, then remove the holytex from the paper and done. "
Eisenhower stated that after 2 - 3 days of drying, he removes the holytex off the board (I think I get that, but don't know how) and then he removes the holytex from the paper? I thought the holytex stayed on the mounted piece with the masa/mulberry paper and poster, like the cotton duck would. Why is the holytex even part of the process if you are removing it at the end? That just leaves you with the poster glued to nothing but masa/mulberry paper? That doesn't seem right. What am I not understanding?
Thanks in advance for any help, clarification or advice you can give me.
So you placed adhesive on the poster, then laid the mulberry on top? I would imagine as soon as the mulberry hit the wet poster/glue it began to soak it up and lay down unevely, especially if you were laying the poster down by hand. I'm guessing this is what contributed to the inconsistent placing of the mulberry onto the poster.
Here is the method i used, gotten from Charlie. - i glued a "holytex" fabric to a large board, i think it had a melamine surface so I could remove it when completed. - I then glued masa paper (70gsm's?) of course Mulberry could be used---to the holytex, after it dried, - i then washed my poster, sandwiched in between mylar, then removed 1 sheet of mylar, brushed a thin layer of adhesive, then with the poster still on one side of the mylar, laid it down on the masa. - allow 2-3 days of drying, then pull the holytex off the board, then remove the holytex from the paper and done.
I'm guessing the poster was not completely flat when you laid the mulberry down, thus resulting in wrinkles/bubbles. Using a brayer is often not necessary, it can create fold line issues. I simply wipe it down form the center to the edges, of course the mylar is still on top before i pull it off, carefully of course.
If you've got creases, then i'm guessing you might use some pressure, but i'm not confident it will help dramatically. I let mine dry naturally 2-3 days.
Hope this helps and i'll check this thread again. But very nice to see someone taking big risks, having fun and documenting it! Keep at it!
I'm new, ignorant, and confused! If we talk about poster mounting as poster > masa paper > cotton duck, then the holytex takes the place of the cotton duck, so it's poster > masa or mulberry paper > holytex in this example?
I guess you're gluing down the holytex to a table or surface in the hopes that you can easily remove the entire mounted piece afterwards, since you're not mounting to a stretched and framed piece of canvas?
"- allow 2-3 days of drying, then pull the holytex off the board, then remove the holytex from the paper and done. "
Eisenhower stated that after 2 - 3 days of drying, he removes the holytex off the board (I think I get that, but don't know how) and then he removes the holytex from the paper? I thought the holytex stayed on the mounted piece with the masa/mulberry paper and poster, like the cotton duck would. Why is the holytex even part of the process if you are removing it at the end? That just leaves you with the poster glued to nothing but masa/mulberry paper? That doesn't seem right. What am I not understanding?
Thanks in advance for any help, clarification or advice you can give me.
So....Mark and Charlie are lightyears ahead of me but the process I described and Mark commented on was my first attempt at paperbacking. If you look around, Charlie posted a couple of video that partially covers his process that I tried to copy.
The Holytex doesn't replace the cotton duct/ linen. It just provides a nice smooth mounting platform for the Mulberry or Masa paperback. The concept is once the Holytex is mounted to a clean, flat surface, the paper is mounted to the Holytex and finally, the poster, LC, insert, etc. is mounted to the Mulberry. After it dries, as Mark and Charlie did, I used a cake spatula (cheap set on Amazon) and slid it under the Holytex to remove the entire "sandwich." Since the Holytex is spun polyester, it's easily removed from the paperbacked poster.
I find this to be much easier than linenbacking. In fact. paperbacking appears to be the standard for for 1/2 sheets, LCs, inserts and smaller posters. I'm not sure why collectors prefer linenbacking on one-sheet or larger posters but I noticed linenbacked posters command a premium in the market. Maybe there's an advantage if you're buying and selling a lot of posters. It may be easier to ship a linenbacked poster as opposed to a paperbacked poster.
Again, Mark or Charlie really are the aces here. I'm a rookie.
i then washed my poster, sandwiched in between mylar, then removed 1 sheet of mylar, brushed a thin layer of adhesive, then with the poster still on one side of the mylar, laid it down on the masa.
As Mark highlighted, this is where I believe I added the air pockets. The poster wasn't entirely flat when I laid it down by hand to the paper. I should have kept it on Mylar while I was mounting it to the Mulberry.
I just watched a guy on YouTube follow the process Mark described. He ended up with great results.
LC, like any paper can be deacidified, or bleached depending on the card; the LC is thicker than other paper's such as a one sheet or daybill or most other foreign papers, so maybe soak's or spray's need to stay on longer? I had a hard time cleaning up a LC that i paperbacked; not sure if it was the stain chems, or the paper thickness, or fibers? In this it's all about experience, the best teacher.
Holytex - I really don’t remember and it shouldn’t matter. Are you letting the holytex/wheat paste dry a few days before applying the masa and then letting it dry again before applying the card. You can’t glue all three at once. You may be able to get away with letting holytex dry and doing masa/poster…
Comments
Obviously, this poster was well "loved." As discussed, there was a LOT of paper loss which made the restoration difficult for an amateur. The exposed paper fiber made it tricky to replicate the sharp lines of the original - especially on the missing printing.
Regardless, I mitered the corners of a cheap antique frame, joined and painted it and cut a mat. I've provided a close up of the repaired area. I used an oil based pastel as a base for the outer green column. Not sure I'd used the same medium again. If one looks close, it doesn't match. Other than that, it presents fairly well.
For my first swag at paperbacking, I think it went as well as could be expected. I needed to get some backing behind the poster to add the missing pieces/ color.
Here are the pics:
As mentioned, if it were a valuable LC, I'd likely NOT bleach it. The deacidifacation process really improved the appearance by itself. Also, the more I read about bleaching, as most of the pros know, this is probably the last option one would want to use to improve aesthetics of a poster, LC, other artwork. I'm also finding the direct sunlight bleaching technique to be an interesting and perhaps safer/ easier option.
I'll post some links and pics in my bleaching thread.
I guess you're gluing down the holytex to a table or surface in the hopes that you can easily remove the entire mounted piece afterwards, since you're not mounting to a stretched and framed piece of canvas?
"- allow 2-3 days of drying, then pull the holytex off the board, then remove the holytex from the paper and done. "
Eisenhower stated that after 2 - 3 days of drying, he removes the holytex off the board (I think I get that, but don't know how) and then he removes the holytex from the paper? I thought the holytex stayed on the mounted piece with the masa/mulberry paper and poster, like the cotton duck would. Why is the holytex even part of the process if you are removing it at the end? That just leaves you with the poster glued to nothing but masa/mulberry paper? That doesn't seem right. What am I not understanding?
Thanks in advance for any help, clarification or advice you can give me.
The Holytex doesn't replace the cotton duct/ linen. It just provides a nice smooth mounting platform for the Mulberry or Masa paperback. The concept is once the Holytex is mounted to a clean, flat surface, the paper is mounted to the Holytex and finally, the poster, LC, insert, etc. is mounted to the Mulberry. After it dries, as Mark and Charlie did, I used a cake spatula (cheap set on Amazon) and slid it under the Holytex to remove the entire "sandwich." Since the Holytex is spun polyester, it's easily removed from the paperbacked poster.
I find this to be much easier than linenbacking. In fact. paperbacking appears to be the standard for for 1/2 sheets, LCs, inserts and smaller posters. I'm not sure why collectors prefer linenbacking on one-sheet or larger posters but I noticed linenbacked posters command a premium in the market. Maybe there's an advantage if you're buying and selling a lot of posters. It may be easier to ship a linenbacked poster as opposed to a paperbacked poster.
Again, Mark or Charlie really are the aces here. I'm a rookie.
i then washed my poster, sandwiched in between mylar, then removed 1 sheet of mylar, brushed a thin layer of adhesive, then with the poster still on one side of the mylar, laid it down on the masa.
As Mark highlighted, this is where I believe I added the air pockets. The poster wasn't entirely flat when I laid it down by hand to the paper. I should have kept it on Mylar while I was mounting it to the Mulberry.
I just watched a guy on YouTube follow the process Mark described. He ended up with great results.
Can you please provide deacidfy recipe.
thank you
AKA lime water.
how do you cover a larger spot on white? Do you use the pencils or something else?