Charlie
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Best you can do with sharpie on porous surface is sand it off…
Acetone can remove from shiny surface but also takes the poster colors too - so you have to be very cautious when using acetone. -
No Clorox; there may be a method with ammonia but I would google cool conservation on that one.
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(Quote) Acetic - vinegar…
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(Quote) That could be fun…
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(Quote) You can buy it from a chem place or pool supply but the key is to get one with high available chlorine. Note it will come with attached salts but the chlorine does the work. Salts wash out. You will have to use trial and error to dete…
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Step 1: Deacidification with Calcium Hydroxide (Raises pH & give poster some alkalinity) 30 minStep 2: Bleach with Calcium Hypochlorite (Reaction with substances in paper such as albumin, sizing, chromophores and …Check the first page of the thread… It is all here my man.(Quote) Optional I've done it both ways. It was easier to have it all ready to go. I also think Mark/Dario recommend the masa drying first.(Quote) It is an interesting variation for conisderation. At least you would get to see if you made an impact on appearance.
Re: when I was backing.... I would only let dry if I simply had no energy left or was out of stretched can…If you didn’t back the poster, a few wrinkles is a miracle. Most backers go straight from damp to backing.art storesNo. But there are conservation pages that suggest it.
BUT Spackling is basically calcium carbonate, cellulose, and a binder.Very nice!!!It’s DAP spackle… did you google as suggested?😂 They use spackle… it’s accepted. Just google conservation and spackle.
I used a mix of methylcellulose, cellulose powder, and calcium carbonate… on smaller patches you can dab with methylcellulose and sprinkle cellulose/calcium carbonat…(Quote) Yes. I have used both. The holytex will let the process breathe a bit more but you have to be careful as it does not support as much as the mylar. Here is what I had ordered in the past: -The mylar needs to…All the information is available... One day, if I ever find the time, I'll write a book and sell it on amazon. And no other conservator or linenbacker will agree with everything in it. What works for me didn't always work for in New to linen backing Comment by Charlie September 2022Yes - this can be done. Some use acrylic. I had used water soluble mediums. But in the end water color pencils take care of most of it. For borders you may have to mask and airbrush.I am now thinking it is photographer Sam Emerson…
(Quote) Well it worked but didn’t clear anything up!
TalasAcid free paper for what use?That will be a tough one... RIP Vincent Price.Nice. I might try that with a Lou Diamond Piece...I was always very diligent to not get any paste between Mylar and poster. One other step is make sure you clean your Mylars between projects. If there is wheat paste left from last poster it can end up on the next poster. Water and rag…I expect to see some auction hauls... I slept right through most of it but caught a little bit - nothing that excited me though.Not really. There was a rumor that a prominent restorer would give a weekend workshop for $5,000.
Plus I would say no amount of instruction will replace just jumping in (with throw always of course)…Cool Heritage May and I think I added my method in one of the threads. Start google searches with paper conservation and add topic like bleaching.(Quote) Water and heat! Pot, scale, fridge... Mix it all up with deionized water per instructions. Some folks cook right away, I soak for an hour. After it is cooked I would leave min overnight in the fridge.
I would also buffer m…Rick - just upload the photos... The links arent working and I haven't been able to figure it.
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