Third area on top/side. Paper tape Backside - before.
Backside - After. This paper tape received a greater saturation of Bestine which seemed to help. A light sanding helped smooth out the rough areas where the tape was, readying it for support.
Tricky fiddly work but great job. So looks like some tape can never come off. I have some posters mounted in a frame (floating not hinged) with archival tape at the corners, i sometimes worry that if i leave them framed and decide to besstine them or undo them in 20 years im going to get into trouble.
Keen to hear from yourself Mark and other members if i should remove then now while i can. I read somewhere that even archival tape and the adhesive changes over time
Tricky fiddly work but great job. So looks like some tape can never come off. I have some posters mounted in a frame (floating not hinged) with archival tape at the corners, i sometimes worry that if i leave them framed and decide to besstine them or undo them in 20 years im going to get into trouble.
Keen to hear from yourself Mark and other members if i should remove then now while i can. I read somewhere that even archival tape and the adhesive changes over time
Sven, I know very little about varieties of tape, but I once read somewhere the quote, there is no such thing as archival tape. That all of it has some sort of negative properties on paper. I'd likely seek out a nearby paper conservator if the brand you've used has any negative properties, and if it's located against or nearby your posters.
I've had the brushes for almost 9 months and have had to pick one off the canvas before, and only saw it because my table faces a large window letting in light when I'm applying the wheat paste. Will have to find some online.
Sven-it was the same process for washing/deacid/bleaching-one hour time, but the easier part was no canvas to stretch on a frame.----Piece is smaller than most so that's easier.
I have a few places to burnish, a small tear on right edge, small pencil touchup.
Did not have the MC glue-which is a weaker bond, on the board, and did not have holytex-used an alternative-Should be dry enough tonight for me to find out if it was a success. So far so good.
Ok-good-thx! I haven't ordered MC from Talas yet, but will later to practice infill. I thought I'd read where MC was used because it is weaker.
I added a small amount of water to the WP I used on the board so it would create a weaker bond between the board/polyester/masa paper. I used normal WP between the masa & LC.
I tested the adherence of the polyester to the board this morning-was still mounted-but pulled away from the corners easily.
My advice is 3" larger than the poster for both masa and the holytex. Or when the poster dries is will curl up and pull the poly away. This is one advantage to the mulberry. It hasn't even hinted at doing this.
Comments
Front-top middle.
Top middle-backside underway.
Front-top middle-tape removed.
Front - Before
Front -After
Backside - before.
Backside - After. This paper tape received a greater saturation of Bestine which seemed to help.
A light sanding helped smooth out the rough areas where the tape was, readying it for support.
Keen to hear from yourself Mark and other members if i should remove then now while i can. I read somewhere that even archival tape and the adhesive changes over time
Sven, I know very little about varieties of tape, but I once read somewhere the quote, there is no such thing as archival tape. That all of it has some sort of negative properties on paper. I'd likely seek out a nearby paper conservator if the brand you've used has any negative properties, and if it's located against or nearby your posters.
Hi General Eisenhower,
Kindly, it would be a good idea to change your brushes from white bristle to Black bristle.
Why?
Reason is, Bristles will come off over time and will be difficult to spot when loose on the back, mixed with the glue.
So when the poster is dry, you will have this raised line. Not good!
Best,
dario.
I've had the brushes for almost 9 months and have had to pick one off the canvas before, and only saw it because my table faces a large window letting in light when I'm applying the wheat paste. Will have to find some online.
First real attempt at paperbacking.
Like the colors in that lobby card too!
Thanks.
Sven-it was the same process for washing/deacid/bleaching-one hour time, but the easier part was no canvas to stretch on a frame.----Piece is smaller than most so that's easier.
I have a few places to burnish, a small tear on right edge, small pencil touchup.
Did not have the MC glue-which is a weaker bond, on the board, and did not have holytex-used an alternative-Should be dry enough tonight for me to find out if it was a success. So far so good.
I haven't ordered MC from Talas yet, but will later to practice infill. I thought I'd read where MC was used because it is weaker.
I added a small amount of water to the WP I used on the board so it would create a weaker bond between the board/polyester/masa paper. I used normal WP between the masa & LC.
I tested the adherence of the polyester to the board this morning-was still mounted-but pulled away from the corners easily.
After removal of the lobby card & it's poly support from the board...
...then removal of the poly from the masa...(backside with masa to be trimmed)...
...poly removed from masa, masa trimmed...my first paperbacked lobby!
Up next...half sheet!