Bleached my first piece today. Overall a B-. The black spots disappeared, the whites went from yellow to white, and overall pleased. The reds did fade and will need touch up once completed.
Bleached my first piece today. Overall a B-. The black spots disappeared, the whites went from yellow to white, and overall pleased. The reds did fade and will need touch up once completed.
Attached is a poster in good shape but has brown at the folds. I do not want to bleach, any suggestions on how to get them out? Will just a wash in warm water work? It was suggested to use ammonia in a video, any suggestions are welcome.
What size poster is that? A one sheet? It’s going to be fun to piece it together after it’s washed and needs to be laid down. The best I’ve done is three pieces for a daybill and it was a really difficult wash and piecing together. You think after you lay them down/glue to the masa paper when they’re wet and, hey! The lines all lineup! Then it begins to dry over the next 2-3-4 days and I’m like whoops! Not all in alignment anymore!
Use cal hypo to bleach the stains out, some toning will come out during a deacidification bathe but not all.
It is an interesting variation for conisderation. At least you would get to see if you made an impact on appearance.
Re: when I was backing.... I would only let dry if I simply had no energy left or was out of stretched canvas. You don't want to go full on wet but I would squeegee out the water (between the mylars) and then pat with paper towls; then start applying the wheat paste.
I would install masa on canvas and have those ready but you would still need to dampen before applying so the paper doesn't suck all the moisture from the wheat paste.
<<Caution>> You may want to remember this when you go to back a dry poster. If you put wheat paste straight on dry paper it will suck the water out of the mixture and gum up on you. This can result in weak adhesion and or no ability to reposition the poster...
That makes sense. I will heavily mist. To your first point I was able to see that I reduced the browning or aging along the fold lines, and the fold lines were not as pronounced. Do you let the masa dry before adding poster?
That makes sense. I will heavily mist. To your first point I was able to see that I reduced the browning or aging along the fold lines, and the fold lines were not as pronounced. Do you let the masa dry before adding poster?
Optional I've done it both ways. It was easier to have it all ready to go. I also think Mark/Dario recommend the masa drying first.
Duke, it’s all online. This site answers all the questions you’ll need to restore paper. I printed so many chapters and read. Charlie certainly clarified and helped a great deal, but you’ll get a much more broad view of other techniques available.
Comments
How is it avoided in the future?
Could it be the black ink?
Re: when I was backing.... I would only let dry if I simply had no energy left or was out of stretched canvas. You don't want to go full on wet but I would squeegee out the water (between the mylars) and then pat with paper towls; then start applying the wheat paste.
I would install masa on canvas and have those ready but you would still need to dampen before applying so the paper doesn't suck all the moisture from the wheat paste.
<<Caution>> You may want to remember this when you go to back a dry poster. If you put wheat paste straight on dry paper it will suck the water out of the mixture and gum up on you. This can result in weak adhesion and or no ability to reposition the poster...
Does anyone have a formula for the calcium hydroxide for a 1 sheet?
thank you