Paperbacking Attempt #3 (or #4)

CQ_Link

After what I consider to be subpar results (excess creasing,  a few air pockets and paper backing coming off the poster,  I took another crack at it and while I still ran into a few problems (Mulberry wrinkles and Holytex coming loose from the table surface),  I enjoyed better results.

Here's a rundown:

I used the same basic approach used by Charlie and some others.  I wheat-pasted Holytex to a large flat surface,  mounted/ wheat-pasted Talas 52-gsm (last time I used 30-gsm) Mulberry paper to the Holytex.

Here's the flat surface I cleaned and used:



Holytex cut and ready to paste onto the surface:



Mulberry cut to size:




Size check:



Roller and paste:



Holytex mounted (dries fast):



I don't have the pics but at this point I mounted the Mulberry.  To ensure it mounted as smoothly as possible (no creases or air pockets) I placed the Mulberry sheet on Mylar.  I misted the Mulberry down with distilled water in an attempt to get it to lay flat on the Mylar.  For the most part,  I succeeded but I managed to wrinkle the Mulberry.  Some of the wrinkles were not easy to remove.  At this point I know I need to get better at the technique I'm using to get everything to lay flat.

After mounting the Mulberry,  I followed the same procedure with the half sheet.  Again,  I ended up creating some wrinkles while attempting to get the poster on the Mylar.  Any tips on how to reduce these wrinkles are appreciated!

After getting the poster as flat as I could on the Mylar,  I applied wheat paste to the Mulberry,  misted the Mulberry with distilled water and began rolling the Mylar/ poster onto the Mulberry.  Again,  for the most part,  I eliminated a LOT of wrinkled I encountered when I did not pre-set the poster onto the Mylar.

Here's the mounted,  wet poster:



I used a bondo squeegee (plastic) to remove all air pockets and excess wheat paste from under the poster.  Posterfix Chris uses a brayer.  I tried that but the brayer left creases/ residual roller marks.  The squeegee worked well.

You can see the large paper tear.  I did that when I deacidified the poster.  Not realizing how delicate wet paper is,  I quickly removed the Mylar used in the deacidifcation process,  instead of gently lifting the Mylar off the poster.  After I mounted the poster to the Mulberry (above pic),  I should have taken the time to work with the poster to line up the tear a little better.  I think I can address this opportunity in the restoration phase.

After removing all the air pockets and excess paste,  here's the drying Holytex/ Mulberry/ Half Sheet "sandwich:



I thought I'd leave a little Holytex off the side of the table for easier removing of the sandwich.  In retrospect,  not a good idea.  The Holytex began to lift off the table and helped create a warp when it dried.

Here's the warp:





I've a Seal Dry Mount press.  I'll use it to flatten the poster:



The poster is stacked on old matboard with release paper on both side of the paper.  The heat of the press transfer through the matboard to the poster.  The release paper ensures ink does not transfer to the matboard.  The long, dark grey handle at the back of the press swings forward and clamps down on the sandwich as it transfers heat.  I applied 200(F) heat as I clamped for approx. two minutes.

I'll provide finished pics after I touch up the tears.

In the interim,  if anyone has tips to help me mount paper or he poster to the Mylar without creating wrinkles  all suggestions are welcomed!

Charlie

Holytex will look near white when dry. I didn't see a pick of the dry mounted holytex... It has to dry and adhere for this to work. Often I would have the holytex dry (day 1), apply mulberry or masa (day 2) and poster whenever ready... I use to keep 4-6 boards ready already dried up through the mulberry.  Then just apply the poster.

It also appears everything is excessvely wet... Are you using a squegee/roller to get all the excess water out of the poster? I shouldn't be able to see the little pools of water on the poster.

Go back and look at the wet posters in this thread: https://vintagemoviepostersforum.com/discussion/1428/paperbacking-101#latest

These had been laid down within 10 minutes of the photo. You can see that the water only radiats a few inches from the poster. Water is removed from the poster by leaving the poster between the two mylar sheets and using a japanese hard brush or squegee to work the excess water out of the poster. You can also do this and wait a few hours until the poster is just damp. 

Too much water or unever water will cause the lift and warping every day of the week.  

CQ_Link

Charlie said:

Holytex will look near white when dry. I didn't see a pick of the dry mounted holytex... It has to dry and adhere for this to work. Often I would have the holytex dry (day 1), apply mulberry or masa (day 2) and poster whenever ready... I use to keep 4-6 boards ready already dried up through the mulberry.  Then just apply the poster.

It also appears everything is excessvely wet... Are you using a squegee/roller to get all the excess water out of the poster? I shouldn't be able to see the little pools of water on the poster.

Go back and look at the wet posters in this thread: https://vintagemoviepostersforum.com/discussion/1428/paperbacking-101#latest

These had been laid down within 10 minutes of the photo. You can see that the water only radiats a few inches from the poster. Water is removed from the poster by leaving the poster between the two mylar sheets and using a japanese hard brush or squegee to work the excess water out of the poster. You can also do this and wait a few hours until the poster is just damp. 

Too much water or unever water will cause the lift and warping every day of the week.  

I think you nailed it.  I didn’t let the Holytex dry overnight.  I slapped everything together in one go.   Lesson learned.  I used a squeegee to get the excess water and paste out but I had a few air pockets that were tricky to remove.

While everything is flat now (due to the press), as you noted, I think I could have addressed the warp by following the steps you mentioned.  I’ll do this on my next attempt.  

Thanks for the link to the pics.  I’ll review and adjust.

These tips are very much appreciated!  

Eisenhower

I would suggest a brayer to ensure the holytex and then mulberry/masa are smooth with no creases. Same with linenbacking; again, rolling the holytex or masa from the middle to the edges, moving around the poster in a circular fashion. 

I remember the first few backings, my half sheet, then one sheet were waterlogged sandwiches! took days to dry! LOL! Now i don't lay the poster down till has  considerably dried, but is just past damp when drying, but placing the adhesive on before the paper begins to curl or wrinkle when it gets too dry. 

Duke

What number Holytex did you guys use for the base?

Charlie

All of them work.  Just the thinner ones usually only last once or twice while the thicker ones are more durable for multiple uses.