Harper Poster Linenback (Linenbacking Attempt #3 or #4)
Greetings!
I've not posted in awhile so rather to share progress I'm making with linenbacking in a long thread with numerous pics (I've linenbacked approx. 10 posters since my last post), I thought I'd post progress on a "poster by poster" basis.
I'll start with my 3rd attempt - a one-sheet 1966 Harper ($10 (damaged), eBay).
The highlight here is I was able to lay both the 45-gsm Mulberry AND the poster down on canvas with no wrinkles or creases. I found I wasn't applying enough wheat paste to the canvas/ Mulberry AND, to further eliminate wrinkles, I began spraying both the Mulberry and the poster with distilled water prior to laying the paper and poster down.
Mark and/ or Charlie provided a tip: I place Mulberry (or Masa) or a poster on Mylar sheets prior to mounting them on the linen and I spray them with distilled water on the poster while it's on Mylar. The paper or poster adheres to the Mylar so I can carry the entire sheet of paper or poster to the mounting board and roll it out in a very controlled manner.
After the paper or poster is rolled onto the mounting board surface, I can work out most, if not all, remaining creases and folds.
I've become fairly good at laying down paper so I don't need the Mylar for Masa but I've found it works great for Mulberry and posters.
This poster had four annoying tape stains. The tape, in fact was still on four corners of the poster. I used Bestine to get the tape off but the stains remained. I had to lightly sand those stains to get as much off as I could without wearing out the paper. After I sanded as much as could, the deacidfying and bleaching process did a decent job at removing most of the stains. Since I'm "OK" with an airburush, when I get to patching the hole by Paul Newman's forehead, I'll airbrush out the remaining tape stains.
The opportunity here is ensuring ink stays on the poster while I try to remove the excess wheat paste underneath the poster after it's mounted. I used a squeegee to remove the paste but I removed some of the ink as well. It's hard to tell from the pics but the color is not as vibrant as it was prior to ink being removed. Recently, I've been placing Mylar on top of the poster and using a squeegee to remove the excess paste. This works well to preserve the ink but I'm finding excess paste on TOP of the poster.
I'm trying to develop a technique that addresses this problem. One thing for sure - while the Posterfix guy can use a sponge on a wet poster to remove excess paste, I'm not proficient at how he does this. Attempts by me to use a sponge on a freshly mounted poster resulted in significant ink loss or smearing - especially after bleaching a poster. If anyone has a good approach to remove excess paste from the top of the poster, please advise.
That said, once I patch and sand the hole in Paul Newman's forehead and after I remove the remaining tape stains, the poster and linenbacking will look pretty good.
Here's a pic of where I'm at with it:
I've not posted in awhile so rather to share progress I'm making with linenbacking in a long thread with numerous pics (I've linenbacked approx. 10 posters since my last post), I thought I'd post progress on a "poster by poster" basis.
I'll start with my 3rd attempt - a one-sheet 1966 Harper ($10 (damaged), eBay).
The highlight here is I was able to lay both the 45-gsm Mulberry AND the poster down on canvas with no wrinkles or creases. I found I wasn't applying enough wheat paste to the canvas/ Mulberry AND, to further eliminate wrinkles, I began spraying both the Mulberry and the poster with distilled water prior to laying the paper and poster down.
Mark and/ or Charlie provided a tip: I place Mulberry (or Masa) or a poster on Mylar sheets prior to mounting them on the linen and I spray them with distilled water on the poster while it's on Mylar. The paper or poster adheres to the Mylar so I can carry the entire sheet of paper or poster to the mounting board and roll it out in a very controlled manner.
After the paper or poster is rolled onto the mounting board surface, I can work out most, if not all, remaining creases and folds.
I've become fairly good at laying down paper so I don't need the Mylar for Masa but I've found it works great for Mulberry and posters.
This poster had four annoying tape stains. The tape, in fact was still on four corners of the poster. I used Bestine to get the tape off but the stains remained. I had to lightly sand those stains to get as much off as I could without wearing out the paper. After I sanded as much as could, the deacidfying and bleaching process did a decent job at removing most of the stains. Since I'm "OK" with an airburush, when I get to patching the hole by Paul Newman's forehead, I'll airbrush out the remaining tape stains.
The opportunity here is ensuring ink stays on the poster while I try to remove the excess wheat paste underneath the poster after it's mounted. I used a squeegee to remove the paste but I removed some of the ink as well. It's hard to tell from the pics but the color is not as vibrant as it was prior to ink being removed. Recently, I've been placing Mylar on top of the poster and using a squeegee to remove the excess paste. This works well to preserve the ink but I'm finding excess paste on TOP of the poster.
I'm trying to develop a technique that addresses this problem. One thing for sure - while the Posterfix guy can use a sponge on a wet poster to remove excess paste, I'm not proficient at how he does this. Attempts by me to use a sponge on a freshly mounted poster resulted in significant ink loss or smearing - especially after bleaching a poster. If anyone has a good approach to remove excess paste from the top of the poster, please advise.
That said, once I patch and sand the hole in Paul Newman's forehead and after I remove the remaining tape stains, the poster and linenbacking will look pretty good.
Here's a pic of where I'm at with it:
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Any thoughts on how to mop it up without removing ink?