Working to match/mix/create an off white to match the borders that will need to spray on The Jackpot. -The Plate
After about an hour-my samples painted in border of poster with a brush----an airbrush will lay down a much finer coat, but I'm happy the match is getting close...thoughts?...
Thanks guys, appreciate it! This poster has more ridges than the Andes! And not just on he fold lines. It's because the poster had several tears that developed during the wash process when the paper for wet, fragile. Their burnishing out quite well and when moving through any colored artwork should look good after the touch up process.
Working to match/mix/create an off white to match the borders that will need to spray on The Jackpot. -The Plate
After about an hour-my samples painted in border of poster with a brush----an airbrush will lay down a much finer coat, but I'm happy the match is getting close...thoughts?...
I very much appreciate seeing photos like these ones Mark.
I think it is very impressive how much you have learned over the years and how easy you make it look when we all know now how difficult must be to get all these colours and shades right.
Thanks Rosa & David. You know Rosa, colors are my biggest challenge when it comes to the resto work. ...color mixing/matching is difficult. Whether its choosing the right pencil color or mixing to lighten or darken colors. ...my wife is a natural at it. She sees the slight maroon/burgundy in the dark smoke, and other slight shades. ...I double check with her often.
Ok. So I actually tried something new I read in literature today regarding paper infill. With the MC and Cellulose powder drying so white and then needing maximum coverage when sprayed, I found a way, I think, to create an off white cellulose powder. If it dries and sand nicely an odd white, closer to the poster paper, major success. Well see...photos of the infill area to be receive the new infill...Resto on The Jackpot.
A fair number of the crappy condition bulk lots I sell of 1940s and 1950s one-sheets go to restorers. One bulk lot can provide you with enough paper fill for a lifetime (and vintage paper matches so much better).
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Thanks Bruce. I see the bulk lots come up often and will soon be bidding on some. I do need a collection of older posters to grab pieces from.
In this particular case, I'm just trying to hon my skills with the infill compound, especially the color. I think my experiment today should have results which create a better color match.
Why? What, for you, determines when to use and when not to use paper or a compound infill.
I try to use paper on the borders unless it is less that the size I can really handle with my fat fingers. Borders edges take the most wear. I would be worried that over time the compound would take a hit and flake. Plus the more original you can make it the better IMO. Takes some compound and spread it on some masa/linen you cut off and then play with it a bit. It's not strong like paper would be... Just my 2 cents.
Thanks! I've been worried how durable it is. When I clean the old mixed compound from a shot glass after a few days it's brittle. I worry when rolling a poster that has it, it will crack. I will try the experiment and post results...
Remember reading your original thread that when you used it on the inside area of Suspiria, you mentioned it didn't crack after rolling.
Is compound best used then for inner areas where paper won't fit? In larger cracks/crevices that need infill? ----Such as this area?
Agree with keeping as original as possible. ...Will have to visit Bruce's bulk auctions soon...
Blaaaaaaa don't want to be the Party spoiler, but.........
Hi Mark,
Just a friendly observation.
The close ups on "Jackpot show that the poster is not laid down properly.
Your folds are still to raised, probably a mm or so. With in a year or two with the temperature fluctuation the linen backing will contract and expand. The folds fill pop even more ( 2-3 mm ) and the poster will be shoot. It will look really bad and the poster is worth nothing to a picky collector.
What am I doing wrong ?
I it could be a 100 things. Tension, glue to wet to dry, to much glue to little glue?, Paper not relaxed enough, to much water still in paper, not working the paper properly out of the bath. Somewhere in here there is a combo of these possibilities that makes your poster dry this way.
Just keep trying till you find the right way or see if you can train with someone. That would be good.
The litmus test is. Close your eyes run your fingers across the poster, you should not feel the folds after the poster is dry ( flush )
Dario, Thanks for commenting & the possible issues with the folds. During the wash process, the poster had a few separations and I did not remove as much water as i could have, to keep the pieces as straight as possible, prior to applying the wheat paste & gluing to the masa.
Also, here in AZ in July, Aug we have high temps. and i kept the poster sandwiched in the Mylar just prior to application of the paste and laying onto the masa. Poster was much wetter than I wanted and it's likely why it does have such high fold lines.
I have read where you don't put the poster down till it's 80% dry. This was certainly not the case, & the likely culprit.
As for "tension"? Do you mean of the canvas on the frame? Can it be too tight? I stretch my canvas fairly tight, is there any sort of "guide" or "test"?
Lastly, I wish there was someone I could train with, but don't think anyone in AZ that I know works paper conservation, with posters, other than say a University?
....Although...my mom & sister live in West Seattle, Wash which is a short drive to Vancouver...
Yes, the tension of canvas attached to the stretcher bar. You don't want it to snap back when cutting a posters out and you don't want it to be to floppy when laying the poster down.
This part requiters time and you will find the right tension as you gain experience.
A new learning experience! Also known as "something didn't work out as planned!"
I made a new batch of MC with no Cell powder added, and less water. The thought being I would add the cell powder to the MC and create a less watery/slimy mixture that would be easier to apply to a loss area.
It went well till I began to sand the area down this morning-I took the day off as our son was sick with strep throat, but that's another story...- as i began to sand the area down, more to the level of the paper, near the yellow taped area the sand paper "caught" the edge of the infill, lifting up a small piece.
I didn't like this right away as soon it seemed the infill was fragile or brittle. After a few more mins of sanding i felt the infill had not adhered properly or was strong enough on the masa paper with strength that was needed. So i carefully removed the infill piece. The paper loss area will be cleaned up and prepped for a actual paper infill. Next MC mixture will include more water to provide for more penetration into the masa paper which should produce a stronger, more lasting bond.
Sure Ves, my pleasure. It's a lot of fun. Success or ...learning experience.
Next-sticker removal...from the Seven Brides....
This afternoon, more experimentation. I don't have a wallpaper steamer yet, so I came up with a modified technique...
I figured moisture, heat, steam, might do the trick on what I think are water based stickers on the back my Seven Brides for Seven Brothers 1 Sht. I tested a small strip of tape last week. Not perfect results, but not my best effort.
The sticker for the test...bottom left corner, backside. If you look closely you can see under the sticker, it's missing a small portion of the corner.
Portion of towel to buffer the steam, moisture, heat...
An iron, filled with, of course, distilled water...
Soaking the area with, distilled water of course...
Next...10-15 mins later after a through soaking & steam application the sticker is ready for removal. After removal...not perfect, the paper loss where the sticker was shows up, but it was mostly successful & removed with minimal loss of poster integrity. The poster will now dry between two pieces of polyester, under weight, in what I believe is called the Waines-Glass maneuver. Results-the front side of the poster when dried and if it has "thinned" from the sticker removal will tell if successful, will be posted later.
Comments
Photo showing depressions...
After more infill applied and sanded...success!
Frog tape removed & ready for a spray...been messing around with off-white...getting close...
-The Plate
After about an hour-my samples painted in border of poster with a brush----an airbrush will lay down a much finer coat, but I'm happy the match is getting close...thoughts?...
-Burnishing of the fold lines and any other miscellaneous tears...
Up close...
Another close up-
Picts of burnished fold lines to come...
•Before...
•After...
This poster has more ridges than the Andes!
•Before-
•After-
•Before-
•During-gentle removal of high spots of "dead" paper before burnishing.
•After-burnished and ready for infill. ...pinhole will be sanded down if needed later, and touched up.
I think it is very impressive how much you have learned over the years and how easy you make it look when we all know now how difficult must be to get all these colours and shades right.
Well done!! Maestro...!
challenge when it comes to the resto work. ...color mixing/matching is difficult. Whether its choosing the right pencil color or mixing to lighten or darken colors. ...my wife is a natural at it. She sees the slight maroon/burgundy in the dark smoke, and other slight shades. ...I double check with her often.
Area to be infilled-
Taped, ready for infill-
Infill in place-
Ummm, just so you know, I can see the restoration
Here is a handy checklist to help tell eMoviePoster.com apart from all other major auctions!
In this particular case, I'm just trying to hon my skills with the infill compound, especially the color. I think my experiment today should have results which create a better color match.
Remember reading your original thread that when you used it on the inside area of Suspiria, you mentioned it didn't crack after rolling.
Is compound best used then for inner areas where paper won't fit? In larger cracks/crevices that need infill?
----Such as this area?
Agree with keeping as original as possible. ...Will have to visit Bruce's bulk auctions soon...
Hi Mark,
Just a friendly observation.
The close ups on "Jackpot show that the poster is not laid down properly.
Your folds are still to raised, probably a mm or so. With in a year or two with the temperature fluctuation the linen backing will contract and expand. The folds fill pop even more ( 2-3 mm ) and the poster will be shoot. It will look really bad and the poster is worth nothing to a picky collector.
What am I doing wrong ?
I it could be a 100 things. Tension, glue to wet to dry, to much glue to little glue?, Paper not relaxed enough, to much water still in paper, not working the paper properly out of the bath. Somewhere in here there is a combo of these possibilities that makes your poster dry this way.
Just keep trying till you find the right way or see if you can train with someone. That would be good.
The litmus test is. Close your eyes run your fingers across the poster, you should not feel the folds after the poster is dry ( flush )
Best regards,
dario.
Thanks for commenting & the possible issues with the folds. During the wash process, the poster had a few separations and I did not remove as much water as i could have, to keep the pieces as straight as possible, prior to applying the wheat paste & gluing to the masa.
Also, here in AZ in July, Aug we have high temps. and i kept the poster sandwiched in the Mylar just prior to application of the paste and laying onto the masa. Poster was much wetter than I wanted and it's likely why it does have such high fold lines.
I have read where you don't put the poster down till it's 80% dry. This was certainly not the case, & the likely culprit.
As for "tension"? Do you mean of the canvas on the frame? Can it be too tight? I stretch my canvas fairly tight, is there any sort of "guide" or "test"?
Lastly, I wish there was someone I could train with, but don't think anyone in AZ that I know works paper conservation, with posters, other than say a University?
....Although...my mom & sister live in West Seattle, Wash which is a short drive to Vancouver...
Thanks again,
Mark
Yes, the tension of canvas attached to the stretcher bar. You don't want it to snap back when cutting a posters out and you don't want it to be to floppy when laying the poster down.
This part requiters time and you will find the right tension as you gain experience.
Best,
dario.
My canvas certainly isn't floppy and it doesn't have any sort of pull back/snap when I cut the poster out to be trimmed.
I'm 16 months into learning this craft and it's like an onion! The more i work on paper, the more questions & challenges i encounter.
Thanks for commenting when you have time.
Mark
I made a new batch of MC with no Cell powder added, and less water. The thought being I would add the cell powder to the MC and create a less watery/slimy mixture that would be easier to apply to a loss area.
It went well till I began to sand the area down this morning-I took the day off as our son was sick with strep throat, but that's another story...- as i began to sand the area down, more to the level of the paper, near the yellow taped area the sand paper "caught" the edge of the infill, lifting up a small piece.
I didn't like this right away as soon it seemed the infill was fragile or brittle. After a few more mins of sanding i felt the infill had not adhered properly or was strong enough on the masa paper with strength that was needed. So i carefully removed the infill piece.
The paper loss area will be cleaned up and prepped for a actual paper infill. Next MC mixture will include more water to provide for more penetration into the masa paper which should produce a stronger, more lasting bond.
The experience continues...
Next-sticker removal...from the Seven Brides....
This afternoon, more experimentation. I don't have a wallpaper steamer yet, so I came up with a modified technique...
I figured moisture, heat, steam, might do the trick on what I think are water based stickers on the back my Seven Brides for
Seven Brothers 1 Sht. I tested a small strip of tape last week. Not perfect results, but not my best effort.
The sticker for the test...bottom left corner, backside. If you look closely you can see under the sticker, it's missing a small
portion of the corner.
Portion of towel to buffer the steam, moisture, heat...
An iron, filled with, of course, distilled water...
Soaking the area with, distilled water of course...
After removal...not perfect, the paper loss where the sticker was shows up, but it was mostly successful & removed with minimal loss of poster integrity.
The poster will now dry between two pieces of polyester, under weight, in what I believe is called the Waines-Glass maneuver.
Results-the front side of the poster when dried and if it has "thinned" from the sticker removal will tell if successful, will be posted later.